𝚃𝙰𝙱𝙻𝙴 𝙾𝙵 𝙲𝙾𝙽𝚃𝙴𝙽𝚃𝚂       ↓ ↓ ↓      .

𝙾𝚟𝚎𝚛𝚟𝚒𝚎𝚠 . . . . . . . . . . . . . ↓

𝙰𝚙𝚙𝚎𝚊𝚛𝚊𝚗𝚌𝚎 & 𝚜𝚒𝚣𝚎 . . . .   . . . ↓

𝙷𝚊𝚗𝚍𝚕𝚒𝚗𝚐 . . . . . . . . . .   . . . ↓

𝙳𝚒𝚎𝚝 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ↓

𝚃𝚊𝚗𝚔 𝚜𝚒𝚣𝚎. . . . . . . . . . . . . ↓

𝚂𝚞𝚋𝚜𝚝𝚛𝚊𝚝𝚎 . . . . . . . . . . . . ↓

𝚝𝚊𝚗𝚔𝚖𝚊𝚝𝚎𝚜. . . . . . . . . . . . . ↓

𝙴𝚗𝚛𝚒𝚌𝚑𝚖𝚎𝚗𝚝, 𝚑𝚒𝚍𝚎𝚜, & 𝚍𝚎𝚌𝚘𝚛. . ↓

𝚃𝚎𝚖𝚙𝚎𝚛𝚊𝚝𝚞𝚛𝚎 & 𝚙𝚊𝚛𝚊𝚖𝚎𝚝𝚎𝚛𝚜. . ↓

𝙻𝚒𝚐𝚑𝚝𝚒𝚗𝚐 𝚊𝚗𝚍 𝚑𝚎𝚊𝚝𝚒𝚗𝚐. . . .   . ↓

𝙲𝚕𝚎𝚊𝚗𝚒𝚗𝚐. . . . . . . . . . . . . . ↓

𝙵𝚞𝚛𝚝𝚑𝚎𝚛 𝚛𝚎𝚊𝚍𝚒𝚗𝚐 & 𝚜𝚘𝚞𝚛𝚌𝚎𝚜 . ↓

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Goldfish do not exist in the wild because they are a fully domesticated species. However, their wild ancestors (which include several carp species such as carassius bugeri and carassius carassius) are native to parts of southern and central asia. They first sprang to popularity in ancient China nearly 2,000 years ago. It is believed they were originally bred when an orange prussian carp popped up in a pond due to a random genetic mutation, and then were selectively bred to create the dozens of distinct breeds we know today!

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Goldfish vary significantly in appearance based on breed. Some look just like wild carp, some have bulging eyes and doubled tails.   There are over 100 recognized varieties. Generally speaking, the closer a goldfish is visually to a wild carp, the healthier it'll be. Fancy goldfish are very prone to several health issues and live significantly shorter lives than slimbodies. I would highly encourage you to rescue if you want fancy goldfish to avoid ing the breeding of fish who will inevitably suffer. For more information on this subject, check out this post!

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Size also varies significantly depending on breed. Some almost always sur a foot (30cm) and some rarely sur four inches (10cm). The largest breeds are generally healthiest.

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Goldfish, same as most carp, cannot properly digest gluten. Foods high in wheat/flour, corn, oats, etc should be avoided when possible as they can lead to internal blockages, indigestion, and malnutrition. As such, a pellet or flake food is not appropriate. Floating pellets also pose the risk of the fish ingesting air, which can lead to issues with buoyancy- this risk is even higher in fancy goldfish, who have deformed internal organs due to selective breeding. Fancy goldfish need less protein, but more fat and fibre in their diets to aid in digestion with their malformed organs. As a staple, you should feed a gel food. The best one on the market is Repashy Soilent Green, although Repashy Super Gold can work well, too. The most nutrient dense option would be a homemade gel food (a recipe is attached below), which also would cost less, but could take hours to make. Weigh your options and see which gel works best for your life!

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Fresh or cooked vegetables, meats, and much more are also great additions to their diet! Click this link to find some safe plants to enrich their diet.

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Tank size is likely THE most debated aspect of goldfish care. Some people say 10 gallons (38L) each is overkill and some people say 125 gallons (475L) is abusively small. The real answer is that there's no one answer. Some breeds (such as nagate orandas) are around 18" (45cm) average, including tail, and others (such as pearlscales) rarely sur 4" (10cm). Generally, the "10 gallons per inch of fish" (38L per 2.5cm of fish) rule works well for goldfish. The tail length is not included for this measurement, since the main things to keep in mind when deciding a tank size are bioload, activity level, and adult size. None of these are significantly impacted by tail length.

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Ten gallons per inch of fish roughly equates to 100-120 gallons (380-450L) for a standard slimbody, and somewhere between 40-100 (150-380L) for a standard fancy. However, it is absolutely vital that you are prepared to supply a tank much larger than these measurements. Goldfish can easily sur these sizes if given the space.

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It is important to mention that, although goldfish may technically grow to the size of their tank (which is referred to as stunting), this is extremely inhumane. Stunted goldfish have shorter lifespans and more health issues. Stunting has been the direct cause of death for thousands of goldfish. However, this is far from the only problem with undersized tanks - the risk of ammonia poisoning becomes extremely high, which can be fatal. There also wouldn't be enough room to provide proper enrichment. Large tanks are a bare necessity for all goldfish - if you aren't able to provide this, choose another species.

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There are three common options when choosing a substrate for goldfish - bare bottom, sand, or gravel, although some people opt for tile or river rocks. Unfortunately, river rocks and gravel are not safe and should not be used with goldfish. Gravel has a serious risk of impaction. Goldfish, as foragers and bottom feeders, will try to sift through the gravel in search of food. This often results in microscopic cuts on their mouth, and even getting gravel lodged in the mouth so they can't close it or eat. Gravel can also lead to internal blockages if consumed because it cannot be ed by the digestive system. River rocks and gravel both have a serious risk of harbouring anaerobic bacteria as well.

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Bare bottom and tile both can be safe. With tile, don't actually use kitchen or shower tile- use raw slate rocks or flat rocks d for aquariums. Although these don't have outright dangers like gravel and river rocks, they don't provide enrichment. Goldfish do best when they have the ability to forage for their food, so a flat substrate like tile or bare bottom is not ideal long term. However, these are generally the most sterile and easiest to clean option, so they work well for quarantine setups or hospital tanks. Bare bottom also is technically free, so it's good if you're on a budget!

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Sand is the best substrate for goldfish. It doesn't pose the same risks as gravel, but provides enrichment that tile can't! Sand can be more complicated to clean, but with a good siphon you shouldn't have too much difficulty. Pool filtration sand can be a great budget option and is typically found at hardware stores or pool supply stores. It is best to avoid play sand, as it is not heavily regulated. Aquarium sand is also safe, of course, but is normally priced significantly higher than pool filtration sand.

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Goldfish are a shoaling species and need other goldfish as friends. A minimum of three is encouraged, although two could suffice. Different breeds can be mixed to an extent (for example, shubunkins and comets work well, or orandas and fantails) but you should always avoid mixing slimbodied goldfish with fancies. Fancies swim slower, stay smaller, and have different dietary requirements. They would get bullied and would not eat properly if cohabitated with slimbodied goldfish. Keep your fancies and slims separate.

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Goldfish have very few options for non-conspecific tankmates. Anything tropical, aggressive, small, or scavenging cannot work, nor can any fish who need a lot of clutter or who have different dietary needs. In a tank, you could do cloud minnows with young fancy goldfish, but these may get eaten by older or larger fish. Japanese trapdoor snails are a good tank mate as long as you ensure your pH is high enough and you always provide some extra food for them. Japanese trapdoors are live bearing and each female only produces 10-20 babies annually, so these snails don't take over, unlike many other snails. Baby snails may get eaten, but adults will be safe. Other than cloud minnows or trapdoor snails, you're pretty much out of options in a tank.

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In a pond, however, you have a few more options. Other carp, such as crucian carp, koi, or silver carp can go swimmingly with slimbodied goldfish, although they should never be kept with fancy goldfish.

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NEVER keep plecos with goldfish. In addition to their different dietary and temperature needs, which already renders them incompatible, they also have a propensity to suck the slime coat off of goldfish. This leaves the fish much more susceptible to disease and infection, and can even become fatal. A goldfish without a slime coat is like a human without their first layer of skin.

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Goldfish have somewhat high intelligence, and as such need lots of enrichment. They are known to engage in self-damaging behaviors if unstimulated. Loose substrate, other goldfish in the tank, and a varied diet are the best forms of enrichment. These should always be provided, excluding the exception of hospital tanks and quarantine setups. Other enrichment ideas include decor such as live plants, fun air bubblers, rocks and driftwood. Contrary to popular belief, goldfish do do best with some scaping! A totally bare tank is far from ideal.

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Goldfish aren't typically shy fish and don't really need hides. It'd be nearly impossible to find any big enough, anyways. If you feel the need to provide hides, make sure they don't take up much of the tank and the holes are significantly larger than the fish.

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Always avoid any sharp or stiff decor with bubble eyes, celestial eyes, telescope eyes, and any other breed with highly modified eyes. These breeds have very poor vision and are often blind, so there is a high risk of self injury with sharp decor. Instead, opt for live or silk plants, sand, large rounded rocks, and similar objects.

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Goldfish do best in 65-70°f, or 18-21°c, although they can survive anything from below freezing to about 90°f, or 32°c. Exposure to temperatures above 72°f (22°c) long-term can and will shorten their lifespans significantly. An aquarium chiller may be necessary if the tank is staying on the warm side. Goldfish do not do well in warm water, with the exception, of course, of pond fish. Since pond goldfish have an entire weather cycle - freezing or bitter cold for several months, then tepid spring, and then scorching summer days, the high temperatures are less of a concern for them. If your climate is above 72°f (22°c) or below 50°f (10°c) for more than six months of the year, you may want to rethink putting goldfish in your pond.

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Goldfish can do well in nearly any pH as long as it's stable. Significant and sudden changes in pH can be stressful and leave the fish more prone to infection and several health issues. Ammonia and nitrite should ALWAYS be 0ppm- no exceptions. Even 0.25ppm of ammonia can become fatal. Nitrate should never get over 20ppm. To maintain these parameters, it is vital to do a fishless cycle before putting goldfish into their tank or pond. Fish-in cycles are not ethical and should be avoided whenever possible. They have an extremely high risk of death. Having a large enough tank is also vital to maintain a healthy balance.

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To ensure you're keeping these parameters in check, you need a thermometer and a liquid test kit. Never use test strips. They are extremely inaccurate. The API Master Test Kit and JBL's liquid test kit are great options.

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Unless kept in an outdoor pond with freezing temperatures for months at a time, there is no need for any supplemental heating. Goldfish are coldwater fish. In warm water, they are more susceptible to parasitic, bacterial, and fungal infections. Warm water also, by its nature, cannot be as oxygenated as cold water, and high oxygenation is vital for proper goldfish health.

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On the other hand, if the temperature frequently sures 72°f (22°c) (as in for 20+ days for several months of the year), a chiller will be necessary to provide good health and longevity.

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Goldfish do not need special lighting such as UVB or halogens. However, some lighting in a consistent cycle is important to maintain a healthy circadian rhythm. Go for 6-8 hours of light each day if you want to reduce algae, or 10-12 hours if you don't mind it. If the tank is by a window or in a room where the lights are always on, you may not need to even buy a tank light unless you plan on growing plants. Goldfish don't need a strong, bright light- they just need a consistent cycle. If you opt for artificial lighting, you can buy a timer so you don't need to to turn the light on and off at the exact same time each day- this is a great option for busy people!

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Goldfish who are kept in a tank should have weekly water changes of at least 50%. If the tank is overstocked, this will need to be much more frequently. When performing a water change, substrate should be sifted and cleaned to prevent buildup of anaerobic bacteria and debris.

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Frequent cleaning of algae is not necessary. Algae can actually be beneficial, providing a healthy and enriching food source for foraging goldfish. Moreover, it lowers toxins in the water column. However, if you have live plants or want a scenic tank, you may want to remove algae. Do not use algae-killing chemicals, as many of these are harmful to goldfish or their tank mates. Instead, discover why you're having problems with algae - most often, it's because there's too much light or the fish are being overfed, but unstable pH, high toxin levels, overdosing of nutrients, or a number of other things could be your problem.

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Goldfish do not benefit from handling. In fact, touching them can remove their slime coat which leaves them more prone to injury, infection, and other issues. Goldfish should not be handled, by hand or by net, whenever it is possible to avoid it.

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Lids can prevent oxygenation on a tank, which is vital to goldfish, so it is encouraged that you choose a well aerated lid such as a mesh lid or plexiglass with holes. Having no lid can also be a great option as long as you don't have other animals such as cats who may want to harm your fish.

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To store homemade gel food, keep in an airtight container in the freezer for up to 6 months. Thaw as needed and store in fridge for up to 10 days. For commerical gel food, make a week's worth at a time and store in the fridge.

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There are dozens of potential illnesses and even more medicines for goldfish. It is impossible to cover them all in one post. I plan on making smaller individual posts about these, but until then always feel free to PM me with goldfish health questions!

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𝚏𝚞𝚛𝚝𝚑𝚎𝚛 𝚛𝚎𝚊𝚍𝚒𝚗𝚐 & 𝚜𝚘𝚞𝚛𝚌𝚎𝚜

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Safe fruit & veg

Nitrogen cycle

Tank size

Fancy health issues

Lighting

Photo

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Huge thanks to Rune for making the cover image!

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